Valentyn Sypavin

Valentyn Sypavin
Valentyn Sypavin on Everest
Personal information
BornValentyn Viktorovych Sypavin
(1983-08-03) 3 August 1983
Kharkiv, Ukraine
OccupationProfessional climber
WebsiteAlpomania
Climbing career
Type of climber
Medal record
Men's competition ice climbing
Representing  Ukraine
UIAA Ice Climbing
2013 World Cup Overall
2013 World Championship Lead

Valentyn Viktorovych Sypavin (born 3 August 1983, Kharkiv, Ukraine) is a Ukrainian mountaineer and ice climber, who has summited Mount Everest eight times. Following ten rope fixers, who summited on the evening of May 10, 2024, Sypavin became the first foreigner to summit, along with the legendary Sanu Sherpa, during the 2024 season on May 11, 2024 at 4:00 am. In 2013, Sypavin became the third in the overall UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup and came second in the UIAA Ice Climbing World Championships.

Climbing career

Sypavin started ice climbing in 2008 when he began training and actively participating in competition ice climbing events. He also established several dry-tooling venues in Crimea.[1][2]

Sypavin later started working as a mountain guide and founded his own adventure company called Alpomania.[3]

He is a Guinness World Record holder in the highest attitude kayaking, which he did at 6370 meters in Atacama, Chile, on 4 January 2020.[4]

In 2022, Sypavin led the first Ukrainian Antarctic expedition to the Vinson Massif.[5]

Major ascents

  • Mount Everest — summited eight times: May 14, 2025,[6] May 11, 2024,[7] May 19, 2024, May 19, 2023, May 23, 2022, May 23, 2019, May 16, 2018, and May 15, 2017.

Four of these ascents were Everest–Lhotse double summits. [8] Valentyn Sypavin achieved his eighth successful ascent of Mount Everest (8,848 m), setting a national record for the highest number of climbs by a Ukrainian mountaineer. [9] He became the fifth climber from Kharkiv and the nineteenth Ukrainian to reach the summit of Everest. [10]

  • K2 (2021) [11]
  • Dallar, route 5B (Porokhni area)
  • Peak Free Spain 5B (winter, Kizel area)
  • Peak Free Spain 5B (as a pair, Kolomytsev area)
  • Bashkara 5B (as a pair, Yu. Pryhoda route)
  • Krumkol 6A (Timofeev route)
  • Asan 6A (Horbenko route)
  • Shkhara 5A (“Crab route”, in a pair)
  • Mont Blanc 6A (Divine Providence route)
  • Alpamayo, Peru
  • Denali, Alaska — speed ascent with Iryna Halay[12]
  • Matterhorn
  • Mont Blanc
  • Mount Elbrus
  • Mount Ararat
  • Mount Damavand
  • Ama Dablam
  • Island Peak
  • Lenin Peak
  • Vinson Massif — leader of the First Ukrainian Antarctic expedition to the Vinson Massif [13]

Crimean ascents

  • Shaan-Kaya: "Samurai" 6A, "Zenith", "Hyperborea" 6A
  • Marcheka: "Center" 6A, "Rainy Season" 6A, "Machombo" 6A, "Player" 6A, "DLZ" 6A
  • Triangle: "Friendship" 6A
  • Castle: "Falcon" 6A, "Through the Cave" 6A, "Direct" 6A

Seven Summits program

Volcanic Seven Summits program

  • Ojos del Salado (6,893 m) — Chile (South America)
  • Kilimanjaro (5,895 m) — Tanzania (Africa)
  • Elbrus (5,642 m) — Russia (Europe)
  • Pico de Orizaba (5,642 m) — Mexico (North America)
  • Damavand (5,671 m) — Iran (Asia)
  • Mount Giluwe (4,367 m) — Papua New Guinea — ascent on 29–30 August 2025 [14]

Rankings

In 2008, he became interested in ice climbing. In 2011, he ranked 4th in the world ice climbing ranking. He is a bronze medalist of the European Championship,[15] vice world champion, and prize-winner of several World Cup stages.[16] He was a bronze medalist in the overall World Cup standings and was in the Top 10 of the world ice climbing ranking for seven consecutive years,[17]

Results in international competitions:

  • 2011 — 3rd place — UIAA Ice Climbing World Championship, Kirov, Russia. [18]
  • 2012 — 3rd place — European Championship, Saas-Fee, Switzerland. [19]
  • 2013:
    • 2nd place — World Championship, Cheongsong, South Korea. [20]
    • 3rd place — Overall World Cup standings. [21]
    • 3rd place (team) — World Championship (Speed), Kirov, Russia.
  • 2014:
    • 2nd place (team) — European Championship (Speed), Ufa, Russia.
    • 3rd place (team) — European Championship (Lead), Ufa, Russia.
    • 4th place — World Cup stage, Cheongsong, South Korea.
    • 6th place — World Cup stage, Busteni, Romania. [22]
  • 2015:
    • 2nd place — World Cup stage, Cheongsong, South Korea.
    • 4th place — World Championship, Rabenstein, Italy (team, Lead). [23]
    • 3rd place — World Championship, Kirov, Russia (team, Speed). [24]
  • 2017:
    • 4th place — World Cup stage, Durango, USA. [25]
    • 5th place — World Cup stage, Cheongsong, South Korea. [26]
  • 2019:
    • 3rd place — Final World Cup stage, Denver, USA. [27]

Ukrainian Ice Climbing Champion: Lead discipline: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016.

He also coached the 2019 Junior World Ice Climbing Champion [28] — Viktoriia Holub. [29]

Ice Climbing World Championships

2013 2015 2017
Lead 2 4 6

Ice Climbing World Cup

2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Overall 4 3 6 4 9 10-11
4,,15,,9 ,,6,6,4 4,6,-,7,6 6-8,2,8,4,-,5 14,4,-,9 4,17,5,28,17

Personal life

Sypavin has worked as a fire service trainer,[30] and also used to work as a university teacher.

Founder of the company Alpomania,[31] which specializes in organizing expeditions and ascents to mountain peaks around the world.

Social media

Platform Link
Facebook valentyn.sypavin
Instagram valiksypavin
YouTube alpomania-8801
Telegram @alpomania_team

Notable ascents

References

  1. ^ Valentyn Sypavin - Ukrainian
  2. ^ Есть первые драйтулинговые маршруты на Украине
  3. ^ Alpomania company
  4. ^ "Highest altitude kayaking". Guinness World Records. 4 January 2020. Retrieved 10 November 2023. The highest altitude kayaking is 6,370 m (20,898.91 ft) and was achieved by Valentyn Sypavin (Ukraine) in Atacama, Chile, on 4 January 2020
  5. ^ ICTV newsTSN News
  6. ^ ""Безпрецедентне досягнення": українець у восьмий раз підкорив Еверест і встановив національний рекорд" (in Ukrainian). Focus.ua. 16 May 2025. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
  7. ^ "Ukrainian Valentyn becomes season's first non-Sherpa climber to scale Everest from Nepal side". Everest Chronicle. 11 May 2024. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
  8. ^ "Наймасовіше сходження: шестеро українців підкорили Еверест за один день" (in Ukrainian). EMPR.media. 15 May 2025. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
  9. ^ ""Безпрецедентне досягнення": українець у восьмий раз підкорив Еверест і встановив національний рекорд" (in Ukrainian). Focus.ua. 16 May 2025. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
  10. ^ "Пятый харьковчанин покорил Эверест". city.kharkov.ua (in Russian). 16 May 2017. Archived from the original on 24 February 2022. Retrieved 4 August 2020.
  11. ^ "ХАРЬКОВЧАНИН ВАЛЕНТИН СИПАВИН ВЗОШЕЛ НА ВТОРУЮ ПО ВЕЛИЧИНЕ ГОРУ МИРА". atn.ua (in Russian). 27 July 2021. Archived from the original on 2 August 2021.
  12. ^ "Вторая украинская команда альпинистов поднялась на высочайшую вершину Северной Америки — Денали". 4sport.ua (in Russian). Archived from the original on 20 October 2020. Retrieved 19 October 2020.
  13. ^ "Перша українська антарктична експедиція на масив Вінсон" (in Ukrainian). Вікіпедія. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
  14. ^ "Валентин Сипавін – Instagram Reel" (in Ukrainian). Instagram. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
  15. ^ "UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup 2012 Overall Ranking" (PDF). theuiaa.org (in Russian). 2013-05-22. Retrieved 2020-08-04.
  16. ^ "UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 Durango, USA" (PDF). theuiaa.org (in Russian). 2018-02-02. Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-11. Retrieved 2020-08-04.
  17. ^ "UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 Overall Ranking" (PDF). theuiaa.org (in Russian). 2017-10-10. Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-12. Retrieved 2020-08-04.
  18. ^ "2011 Overall World Cup Men Lead" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2020-10-22.
  19. ^ "2012 Overall World Cup Men Lead" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2020-10-21.
  20. ^ "Kharkiv climber Sipavin took second place at the World Cup stage in Korea". Redpost.com.ua (in Ukrainian). 2015. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
  21. ^ "2013 Overall Men Lead" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2020-10-20.
  22. ^ "Valentyn Sipavin reached the Ice Climbing World Cup final in Romania". Alp.org.ua (in Ukrainian). 2014. Retrieved 19 October 2025.
  23. ^ "2015 World Championship Team Ranking" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2020-10-21.
  24. ^ "Kirov 2015 Team Ranking" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2020-10-20.
  25. ^ "Durango Men Lead Final Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2021-08-11.
  26. ^ "Cheongsong 2017 Men Lead Final Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2020-10-20.
  27. ^ "Denver Men Lead 2019" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2020-10-22.
  28. ^ "U19 Oulu Women Lead" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2020-10-21.
  29. ^ "Viktoria Golub — Junior World Champion in Ice Climbing!". alpclub.com.ua (in Russian). Archived from the original on 2020-10-23.
  30. ^ Kennedy, Tristian (10 May 2022). "Beyond the Front Lines, Ukrainian Mountaineer aids War Effort". UKClimbing. Retrieved 12 November 2023.
  31. ^ "Валентин Сипавин". AlpoMania.com (in Russian). Archived from the original on 23 October 2020. Retrieved 19 October 2020.
  32. ^ Валентин Сипавин на ЭВЕРЕСТЕ !!!
  33. ^ Харьковчанин Валентин Сипавин второй раз поднялся на вершину Эвереста!
  34. ^ Everest 2019: Summit Wave 5 Recap – 3 Deaths
  35. ^ Три украинских альпиниста взошли на вершину Эвереста!
  36. ^ Украинские альпинисты поднялись на Эверест: харьковчанин Валентин Сипавин установил национальный рекорд
  37. ^ Everest 2023 Summit List
  38. ^ MOUNT EVEREST. A BLUE AND YELLOW FLAG. UNITED24
  39. ^ “I Found One of the Bodies on K2” — An Exclusive Report
  40. ^ Irina Halay on the “Ukrainian Express” to the top of America
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