Appliqué lace

Not to be confused with Part lace.

Appliqué lace or application lace are terms for various types of lace where the decorative motifs, or slips, are attached as appliqués onto an existing openwork fabric, such as tulle, netting, muslin, filet lace, or bobbinet.[1][2][3][4][a] When the lace is applied to netting, the result is sometimes called appliqué net lace.[4][a] Motifs may also be applied to drawn thread work and cut-work. Appliqué lace is normally attached by machine or hand sewing, but can also be attached using glue.[4][a] The motifs can be either made by hand–via needle lace, bobbin lace, or as embroidered fabric–or they can be made by a machine, such as a lace machine. Motifs can also be made individually, or they can be cut from larger pieces of lace fabric.[5]

History

Appliqué lace became popular in Europe and North America in the second half of the 18th century, amid the industrialization of the textile industry in those regions. Generally, it has been made with machine-made netting, with some notable exceptions. One such exception is drochel, a kind of hand-made hexagonal netting which was commonly used in Brussels.[2][6]

Types

Muslin appliqué lace, or muslin appliqué net lace, is made by cutting shapes from muslin or another fine, woven cotton cloth, and attaching the shapes to the netting.[3] Carrickmacross lace is one such type of appliqué lace and is associated with the town of Carrickmacross in County Monaghan, Ireland. It is made up of three layers: lace at the bottom, then netting (usually machine-made), then muslin. It emerged in the 1820s.[2][4][b][7] Belgian appliqué lace is another subtype. Machine copies of muslin appliqué lace were widely produced using on Swiss embroidery machines and schiffli embroidery machines.[4][a]

There is a well-known appliqué variety of Honiton lace, a kind of floral net lace associated with the town of Honiton in Devon, England.[8][9]

Needlepoint appliqué involves the use of buttonhole stitches to create the lace.[3]

Princess lace, or Brussels princess lace, is a type of appliqué tape lace made in the late 19th and 20th centuries in Belgium.[4][c]

Usage

Appliqué lace is used in wedding dresses.[10]

See also

Footnotes

  1. ^ a b c d Earnshaw 1982, pp. 6–7.
  2. ^ Earnshaw 1982, p. 29.
  3. ^ Earnshaw 1982, p. 135.

References

  1. ^ Jordan, Sandra (December 5, 2018). "In Ireland, Making Lace for the Love of It". The New York Times. Retrieved October 18, 2023.
  2. ^ a b c "Application lace". Brittanica. Retrieved September 16, 2025.
  3. ^ a b c "Appliqué Net Lace". Textile Research Center, Leiden. Retrieved September 16, 2025.
  4. ^ a b c d e f Earnshaw, Pat (1982). A dictionary of lace. Internet Archive. Princes Risborough, Aylesbury, Bucks, UK: Shire Publications. pp. 6–7. ISBN 978-0-85263-602-2 – via Internet Archive.
  5. ^ Sewing specialty fabrics. Minnetonka, Minnesota: C. DeCosse (Singer Corporation). 1986. p. 52. ISBN 978-0-86573-209-4 – via Internet Archive.
  6. ^ "Brussels lace". Brittanica. Retrieved September 16, 2025.
  7. ^ Nuri, A. Zarinah (February 7, 2023). "Textile Tuesday: An Introduction to Carrickmacross Lace". Textile Society of America. Retrieved September 16, 2025.
  8. ^ "Honiton Lace". Textile Research Center, Leiden. April 30, 2017. Retrieved September 16, 2025.
  9. ^ "Honiton Lace". Historic UK. Retrieved September 16, 2025.
  10. ^ Khalje, Susan (1997). Bridal couture: fine sewing techniques for wedding gowns and evening wear. Internet Archive. Iola, Wisconsin: Krause Publications. pp. 46–47. ISBN 978-0-8019-8757-1 – via Internet Archive.
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