Ainu bark cloth

Ainu bark cloth
アットゥㇱ, attus(h)
Type
Production methodWeaving
Production processHandicraft
Place of originHokkaido, Japan
Introduced18th century
ManufacturerAinu people

Ainu bark cloth (Ainu: アットゥㇱ, attus or attush) is an Ainu culture cloth woven from tree bark fiber (ohyo)[1] made from native Hokkaido trees. It can be considered a variety of woven barkcloth.[2]

History

Ainu bark cloth was first attested in writing in the 18th century during the Edo period by Japanese traders. North and East Hokkaido, Iburi, and the Saru River basin were centers of production.[3]

As trade grew, Ainu weavers began to use Japanese cotton for clothmaking.[4][1]

By the mid-20th century, Ainu bark cloth production was minimal, but renewed interest from the mingei movement sparked a renaissance in traditional production.[5]

Production and use

Bark is collected from various Hokkaido trees, chiefly lobed elm and Japanese lime. The inner bark is separated and boiled, then the bast fiber separated and dried into ohyo before being hand spun into twisted yarn. The yarn is traditionally weft using an Ainu backstrap loom (attushi karape), and sewn using masticated ohyo. The final cloth is water-resistant and lightweight.[2][6]

Ainu bark cloth is largely used to make traditional Ainu robes, and also kimono, hanten and obi.[6]

Nibutani-attus

Nibutani district in Biratori, Hokkaido has produced Ainu bark cloth (Nibutani-attus) since at least the 18th century. Nibutani-attus was recognized as a Traditional Craft of Japan by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry on March 8th, 2013.[6][7]

See also

  • Nibutani-ita

References

  1. ^ a b A Cotton Coat Made by Japan's Ainu People, American Museum of Natural History, 2018-01-17
  2. ^ a b The ancient craft of barkcloth across the world, National Museums Scotland, retrieved 2025-09-01
  3. ^ Fabrics made from blessings of the forest, Hokkaido Magazine KAI, 2024-11-01
  4. ^ Dowie, Miranda (2021-12-18), "Understanding Cultures through Clothing: Ainu Attush and Salmon Clothing", Asian Art and Architecture, New London, CT: Connecticut College
  5. ^ Bausum, Dolores. “Japanese Country Embroidery.” Piecework, vol. 12, no. 2, Mar. 2004, pp. 36–37. EBSCOhost, search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=asu&AN=505067257&site=eds-live&scope=site.
  6. ^ a b c アイヌ伝統工芸品 (Ainu Traditional Craft), Ainu Nibutani Takumi no Michi, retrieved 2025-08-29
  7. ^ Nibutani bark cloth, Kogei Japan, retrieved 2025-08-29